After four days suppliant to the rock gods of Austin, Holy Week comes as something of a relief. Tonight was Tenebrae at Trinity Church; tomorrow brings Bach's St. Matthew Passion with the New York Philharmonic under their former music director Kurt Masur. Good Friday, I'll be at St. Thomas Church in the afternoon, and Sunday, I have a ticket for high mass at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. In between is extended worship of a whole different stripe: Wagner's Tristan und Isolde at the Met, with Jimmy in the pit.